| THE
diamond invention -- the creation of the idea that
diamonds
are
rare
and valuable, and are essential signs of esteem -- is a relatively
recent development in the history of the diamond trade. Until the late
nineteenth century,
diamonds
were found only in a few riverbeds in India and in the jungles of
Brazil, and the entire world production of gem
diamonds
amounted to a few pounds a year. In 1870, however, huge diamond mines
were discovered near the Orange River, in South Africa, where
diamonds
were soon being scooped out by the ton. Suddenly, the market was deluged
with
diamonds.
The British financiers who had organized the South African mines quickly
realized that their investment was endangered;
diamonds
had little intrinsic value -- and their price depended almost entirely
on their scarcity. The financiers feared that when new mines were
developed in South Africa,
diamonds
would become at best only semiprecious gems.
The major investors in the diamond mines
realized that they had no alternative but to merge their interests into
a single entity that would be powerful enough to control production and
perpetuate the illusion of scarcity of
diamonds.
The instrument they created, in 1888, was called De Beers Consolidated
Mines, Ltd., incorporated in South Africa. As De Beers took control of
all aspects of the world diamond trade, it assumed many forms. In
London, it operated under the innocuous name of the Diamond Trading
Company. In Israel, it was known as "The Syndicate." In Europe, it was
called the "C.S.O." -- initials referring to the Central Selling
Organization, which was an arm of the Diamond Trading Company. And in
black Africa, it disguised its South African origins under subsidiaries
with names like Diamond Development Corporation and Mining Services,
Inc. At its height -- for most of this century -- it
not
only either directly owned or controlled all the diamond mines in
southern Africa but also owned diamond trading companies in England,
Portugal, Israel, Belgium, Holland, and Switzerland.
De Beers proved to be the most successful
cartel arrangement in the annals of modern commerce. While other
commodities, such as gold, silver, copper, rubber, and grains,
fluctuated wildly in response to economic conditions,
diamonds
have continued, with few exceptions, to advance upward in price every
year since the Depression. Indeed, the cartel seemed so superbly in
control of prices -- and unassailable -- that, in the late 1970s, even
speculators began buying
diamonds
as a guard against the vagaries of inflation and recession. The diamond
invention is far more than a monopoly for fixing diamond prices; it is a
mechanism for converting tiny crystals of carbon into universally
recognized tokens of wealth, power, and romance. To achieve this goal,
De Beers had to control demand as well as supply. Both women and men had
to be made to perceive
diamonds
not
as marketable precious stones but as an inseparable part of courtship
and married life. To stabilize the market, De Beers had to endow these
stones with a sentiment that would inhibit the public from ever
reselling them. The illusion had to be created that
diamonds
were forever -- "forever" in the sense that they should never be resold.
In September of 1938, Harry Oppenheimer, son
of the founder of De Beers and then twenty-nine, traveled from
Johannesburg to New York City, to meet with Gerold M. Lauck, the
president of N. W. Ayer, a leading advertising agency in the United
States. Lauck and N. W. Ayer had been recommended to Oppenheimer by the
Morgan Bank, which had helped his father consolidate the De Beers
financial empire. His bankers were concerned about the price of
diamonds,
which had declined worldwide.
In Europe, where diamond prices had collapsed
during the Depression, there seemed little possibility of restoring
public confidence in
diamonds.
In Germany, Austria, Italy, and Spain, the notion of giving a diamond
ring to commemorate an engagement had never taken hold. In England and
France,
diamonds
were still presumed to be jewels for aristocrats rather than the masses.
Furthermore, Europe was on the verge of war, and there seemed little
possibility of expanding diamond sales. This left the United States as
the only real market for De Beers's
diamonds.
In fact, in 1938 some three quarters of all the cartel's
diamonds
were sold for engagement rings in the United States. Most of these
stones, however, were smaller and of poorer quality than those bought in
Europe, and had an average price of $80 apiece. Oppenheimer and the
bankers believed that an advertising campaign could persuade Americans
to buy more expensive
diamonds.
Oppenheimer suggested to Lauck that his
agency prepare a plan for creating a new image for
diamonds
among Americans. He assured Lauck that De Beers had
not
called on any other American advertising agency with this proposal, and
that if the plan met with his father's approval, N. W. Ayer would be the
exclusive agents for the placement of newspaper and radio advertisements
in the United States. Oppenheimer agreed to underwrite the costs of the
research necessary for developing the campaign. Lauck instantly accepted
the offer.
In their subsequent investigation of the
American diamond market, the staff of N. W. Ayer found that since the
end of World War I, in 1919, the total amount of
diamonds
sold in America, measured in carats, had declined by 50 percent; at the
same time, the quality of the
diamonds,
measured in dollar value, had declined by nearly 100 percent. An Ayer
memo concluded that the depressed state of the market for
diamonds
was "the result of the economy, changes in social attitudes and the
promotion of competitive luxuries."
Although it could do little about the state
of the economy, N. W. Ayer suggested that through a well-orchestrated
advertising and public-relations campaign it could have a significant
impact on the "social attitudes of the public at large and thereby
channel American spending toward larger and more expensive
diamonds
instead of "competitive luxuries." Specifically, the Ayer study stressed
the need to strengthen the association in the public's mind of
diamonds
with romance. Since "young men buy over 90% of all engagement rings" it
would be crucial to inculcate in them the idea that
diamonds
were a gift of love: the larger and finer the diamond, the greater the
expression of love. Similarly, young women had to be encouraged to view
diamonds
as an integral part of any romantic courtship.
Since the Ayer plan to romanticize
diamonds
required subtly altering the public's picture of the way a man courts --
and wins -- a woman, the advertising agency strongly suggested
exploiting the relatively new medium of motion pictures. Movie idols,
the paragons of romance for the mass audience, would be given
diamonds
to use as their symbols of indestructible love.
In addition, the agency suggested offering
stories and society photographs to selected magazines and newspapers
which would reinforce the link between
diamonds
and romance. Stories would stress the size of
diamonds
that celebrities presented to their loved ones, and photographs would
conspicuously show the glittering stone on the hand of a well-known
woman. Fashion designers would talk on radio programs about the "trend
towards
diamonds"
that Ayer planned to start. The Ayer plan also envisioned using the
British royal family to help foster the romantic allure of
diamonds.
An Ayer memo said, "Since Great Britain has such an important interest
in the diamond industry, the royal couple could be of tremendous
assistance to this British industry by wearing
diamonds
rather than other jewels." Queen Elizabeth later went on a
well-publicized trip to several South African diamond mines, and she
accepted a diamond from Oppenheimer.
In addition to putting these plans into
action, N. W. Ayer placed a series of lush four-color advertisements in
magazines that were presumed to mold elite opinion, featuring
reproductions of famous paintings by such artists as Picasso, Derain,
Dali, and Dufy. The advertisements were intended to convey the idea that
diamonds,
like paintings, were unique works of art.
BY 1941, The advertising agency reported to
its client that it had already achieved impressive results in its
campaign. The sale of
diamonds
had increased by 55 percent in the United States since 1938, reversing
the previous downward trend in retail sales. N. W. Ayer noted also that
its campaign had required "the conception of a new form of advertising
which has been widely imitated ever since. There was no direct sale to
be made. There was no brand name to be impressed on the public mind.
There was simply an idea -- the eternal emotional value surrounding the
diamond." It further claimed that "a new type of art was devised ... and
a new color, diamond blue, was created and used in these campaigns.... "
In its 1947 strategy plan, the advertising
agency strongly emphasized a psychological approach. "We are dealing
with a problem in mass psychology. We seek to ... strengthen the
tradition of the diamond engagement ring -- to make it a psychological
necessity capable of competing successfully at the retail level with
utility goods and services...." It defined as its target audience "some
70 million people 15 years and over whose opinion we hope to influence
in support of our objectives." N. W. Ayer outlined a subtle program that
included arranging for lecturers to visit high schools across the
country. "All of these lectures revolve around the diamond engagement
ring, and are reaching thousands of girls in their assemblies, classes
and informal meetings in our leading educational institutions," the
agency explained in a memorandum to De Beers. The agency had organized,
in 1946, a weekly service called "Hollywood Personalities," which
provided 125 leading newspapers with descriptions of the
diamonds
worn by movie stars. And it continued its efforts to encourage news
coverage of celebrities displaying diamond rings as symbols of romantic
involvement. In 1947, the agency commissioned a series of portraits of
"engaged socialites." The idea was to create prestigious "role models"
for the poorer middle-class wage-earners. The advertising agency
explained, in its 1948 strategy paper, "We spread the word of
diamonds
worn by stars of screen and stage, by wives and daughters of political
leaders, by any woman who can make the grocer's wife and the mechanic's
sweetheart say 'I wish I had what she has.'"
De Beers needed a slogan for
diamonds
that expressed both the theme of romance and legitimacy. An N. W. Ayer
copywriter came up with the caption "A Diamond Is Forever," which was
scrawled on the bottom of a picture of two young lovers on a honeymoon.
Even though
diamonds
can in fact be shattered, chipped, discolored, or incinerated to ash,
the concept of eternity perfectly captured the magical qualities that
the advertising agency wanted to attribute to
diamonds.
Within a year, "A Diamond Is Forever" became the official motto of De
Beers.
In 1951, N. W. Ayer found some resistance to
its million-dollar publicity blitz. It noted in its annual strategy
review:
The millions of brides and brides-to-be
are subjected to at least two important pressures that work against
the diamond engagement ring. Among the more prosperous, there is the
sophisticated urge to be different as a means of being smart.... the
lower-income groups would like to show more for the money than they
can find in the diamond they can afford....
To remedy these problems, the advertising
agency argued, "It is essential that these pressures be met by the
constant publicity to show that only the diamond is everywhere accepted
and recognized as the symbol of betrothal."
N. W. Ayer was always searching for new ways
to influence American public opinion.
Not
only did it organize a service to "release to the women's pages the
engagement ring" but it set about exploiting the relatively new medium
of television by arranging for actresses and other celebrities to wear
diamonds
when they appeared before the camera. It also established a "Diamond
Information Center" that placed a stamp of quasi-authority on the flood
of "historical" data and "news" it released. "We work hard to keep
ourselves known throughout the publishing world as the source of
information on
diamonds,"
N. W. Ayer commented in a memorandum to De Beers, and added: "Because we
have done it successfully, we have opportunities to help with articles
originated by others."
N. W. Ayer proposed to apply to the diamond
market Thorstein Veblen's idea, stated in The Theory of the Leisure
Class, that Americans were motivated in their purchases
not
by utility but by "conspicuous consumption." "The substantial diamond
gift can be made a more widely sought symbol of personal and family
success -- an expression of socio-economic achievement," N. W. Ayer said
in a report. To exploit this desire for conspicuous display, the agency
specifically recommended, "Promote the diamond as one material object
which can reflect, in a very personal way, a man's ... success in life."
Since this campaign would be addressed to upwardly mobile men, the
advertisements ideally "should have the aroma of tweed, old leather and
polished wood which is characteristic of a good club."
Toward the end of the 1950s, N. W. Ayer
reported to De Beers that twenty years of advertisements and publicity
had had a pronounced effect on the American psyche. "Since 1939 an
entirely new generation of young people has grown to marriageable age,"
it said. "To this new generation a diamond ring is considered a
necessity to engagements by virtually everyone." The message had been so
successfully impressed on the minds of this generation that those who
could
not
afford to buy a diamond at the time of their marriage would "defer the
purchase" rather than forgo it.
THE campaign to internationalize the diamond
invention began in earnest in the mid-1960s. The prime targets were
Japan, Germany, and Brazil. Since N. W. Ayer was primarily an American
advertising agency, De Beers brought in the J. Walter Thompson agency,
which had especially strong advertising subsidiaries in the target
countries, to place most of its international advertising. Within ten
years, De Beers succeeded beyond even its most optimistic expectations,
creating a billion-dollar-a-year diamond market in Japan, where
matrimonial custom had survived feudal revolutions, world wars,
industrialization, and even the American occupation.
Until the mid-1960s, Japanese parents
arranged marriages for their children through trusted intermediaries.
The ceremony was consummated, according to Shinto law, by the bride and
groom drinking rice wine from the same wooden bowl. There was no
tradition of romance, courtship, seduction, or prenuptial love in Japan;
and none that required the gift of a diamond engagement ring. Even the
fact that millions of American soldiers had been assigned to military
duty in Japan for a decade had
not
created any substantial Japanese interest in giving
diamonds
as a token of love.
J. Walter Thompson began its campaign by
suggesting that
diamonds
were a visible sign of modern Western values. It created a series of
color advertisements in Japanese magazines showing beautiful women
displaying their diamond rings. All the women had Western facial
features and wore European clothes. Moreover, the women in most of the
advertisements were involved in some activity -- such as bicycling,
camping, yachting, ocean swimming, or mountain climbing -- that defied
Japanese traditions. In the background, there usually stood a Japanese
man, also attired in fashionable European clothes. In addition, almost
all of the automobiles, sporting equipment, and other artifacts in the
picture were conspicuous foreign imports. The message was clear:
diamonds
represent a sharp break with the Oriental past and a sign of entry into
modern life.
The campaign was remarkably successful.
Until1959, the importation of
diamonds
had
not
even been permitted by the postwar Japanese government. When the
campaign began, in 1967,
not
quite 5 percent of engaged Japanese women received a diamond engagement
ring. By 1972, the proportion had risen to 27 percent. By 1978, half of
all Japanese women who were married wore a diamond; by 1981, some 60
percent of Japanese brides wore
diamonds.
In a mere fourteen years, the 1,500-year Japanese tradition had been
radically revised.
Diamonds
became a staple of the Japanese marriage. Japan became the second
largest market, after the United States, for the sale of diamond
engagement rings.
In America, which remained the most important
market for most of De Beer's
diamonds,
N. W. Ayer recognized the need to create a new demand for
diamonds
among long-married couples. "Candies come, flowers come, furs come," but
such ephemeral gifts fail to satisfy a woman's psychological craving for
"a renewal of the romance," N. W. Ayer said in a report. An advertising
campaign could instill the idea that the gift of a second diamond, in
the later years of marriage, would be accepted as a sign of
"ever-growing love." In 1962, N. W. Ayer asked for authorization to
"begin the long-term process of setting the diamond aside as the only
appropriate gift for those later-in-life occasions where sentiment is to
be expressed." De Beers immediately approved the campaign.
|
THE diamond market had
to be further restructured in the mid-1960s
to accommodate a surfeit of minute diamonds,
which De Beers undertook to market for the
Soviets. They had discovered diamond mines
in Siberia, after intensive exploration, in
the late 1950s: De Beers and its allies no
longer controlled the diamond supply, and
realized that open competition with the
Soviets would inevitably lead, as Harry
Oppenheimer gingerly put it, to "price
fluctuations," which would weaken the
carefully cultivated confidence of the
public in the value of diamonds.
Oppenheimer, assuming that neither party
could afford risking the destruction of the
diamond invention, offered the Soviets a
straightforward deal -- "a single channel"
for controlling the world supply of
diamonds. In accepting this arrangement, the
Soviets became partners in the cartel, and
co-protectors of the diamond invention.
Almost all of the
Soviet diamonds were under half a carat in
their uncut form, and there was no ready
retail outlet for millions of such tiny
diamonds. When it made its secret deal with
the Soviet Union, De Beers had expected
production from the Siberian mines to
decrease gradually. Instead, production
accelerated at an incredible pace, and De
Beers was forced to reconsider its sales
strategy. De Beers ordered N. W. Ayer to
reverse one of its themes: women were no
longer to be led to equate the status and
emotional commitment to an engagement with
the sheer size of the diamond. A "strategy
for small diamond sales" was outlined,
stressing the "importance of quality, color
and cut" over size. Pictures of "one quarter
carat" rings would replace pictures of "up
to 2 carat" rings. Moreover, the advertising
agency began in its international campaign
to "illustrate gems as small as one-tenth of
a carat and give them the same emotional
importance as larger stones." The news
releases also made clear that women should
think of diamonds, regardless of size, as
objects of perfection: a small diamond could
be as perfect as a large diamond.
DeBeers devised the
"eternity ring," made up of as many as
twenty-five tiny Soviet diamonds, which
could be sold to an entirely new market of
older married women. The advertising
campaign was based on the theme of
recaptured love. Again, sentiments were born
out of necessity: older American women
received a ring of miniature diamonds
because of the needs of a South African
corporation to accommodate the Soviet Union.
The new campaign met
with considerable success. The average size
of diamonds sold fell from one carat in 1939
to .28 of a carat in 1976, which coincided
almost exactly with the average size of the
Siberian diamonds De Beers was distributing.
However, as American consumers became
accustomed to the idea of buying smaller
diamonds, they began to perceive larger
diamonds as ostentatious. By the mid-1970s,
the advertising campaign for smaller
diamonds was beginning to seem too
successful. In its 1978 strategy report, N.
W. Ayer said, "a supply problem has
developed ... that has had a significant
effect on diamond pricing" -- a problem
caused by the long-term campaign to
stimulate the sale of small diamonds. "Owing
to successful pricing, distribution and
advertising policies over the last 16 years,
demand for small diamonds now appears to
have significantly exceeded supply even
though supply, in absolute terms, has been
increasing steadily." Whereas there was not
a sufficient supply of small diamonds to
meet the demands of consumers, N. W. Ayer
reported that "large stone sales (1 carat
and up) ... have maintained the sluggish
pace of the last three years." Because of
this, the memorandum continued, "large
stones are being .. discounted by as much as
20%."
The shortage of small
diamonds proved temporary. As Soviet
diamonds continued to flow into London at an
ever-increasing rate, De Beers's strategists
came to the conclusion that this production
could not be entirely absorbed by "eternity
rings" or other new concepts in jewelry, and
began looking for markets for miniature
diamonds outside the United States. Even
though De Beers had met with enormous
success in creating an instant diamond
"tradition" in Japan, it was unable to
create a similar tradition in Brazil,
Germany, Austria, or Italy. By paying the
high cost involved in absorbing this flood
of Soviet diamonds each year, De Beers
prevented -- at least temporarily -- the
Soviet Union from taking any precipitous
actions that might cause diamonds to start
glutting the market. N. W. Ayer argued that
"small stone jewelry advertising" could not
be totally abandoned: "Serious trade
relationship problems would ensue if,
after15 years of stressing 'affordable'
small stone jewelry, we were to drop all of
these programs."
Instead, the agency
suggested a change in emphasis in presenting
diamonds to the American public. In the
advertisements to appear in 1978, it planned
to substitute photographs of
one-carat-and-over stones for photographs of
smaller diamonds, and to resume both an
"informative advertising campaign" and an
"emotive program" that would serve to
"reorient consumer tastes and price
perspectives towards acceptance of solitaire
[single-stone] jewelry rather than
multi-stone pieces." Other "strategic
refinements" it recommended were designed to
restore the status of the large diamond. "In
fact, this [campaign] will be the exact
opposite of the small stone informative
program that ran from 1965 to 1970 that
popularized the 'beauty in miniature'
concept...." With an advertising budget of
some $9.69 million, N. W. Ayer appeared
confident that it could bring about this
"reorientation."
N. W. Ayer learned from
an opinion poll it commissioned from the
firm of Daniel Yankelovich, Inc. that the
gift of a diamond contained an important
element of surprise. "Approximately half of
all diamond jewelry that the men have given
and the women have received were given with
zero participation or knowledge on the part
of the woman recipient," the study pointed
out. N. W Ayer analyzed this "surprise
factor":
Women are in
unanimous agreement that they want to be
surprised with gifts.... They want, of
course, to be surprised for the thrill
of it. However, a deeper, more important
reason lies behind this desire....
"freedom from guilt." Some of the women
pointed out that if their husbands
enlisted their help in purchasing a gift
(like diamond jewelry), their practical
nature would come to the fore and they
would be compelled to object to the
purchase.
Women were not totally
surprised by diamond gifts: some 84 percent
of the men in the study "knew somehow" that
the women wanted diamond jewelry. The study
suggested a two-step "gift-process
continuum": first, "the man 'learns'
diamonds are o.k." from the woman; then, "at
some later point in time, he makes the
diamond purchase decision" to surprise the
woman.
Through a series of
"projective" psychological questions, meant
"to draw out a respondent's innermost
feelings about diamond jewelry," the study
attempted to examine further the
semi-passive role played by women in
receiving diamonds. The male-female roles
seemed to resemble closely the sex relations
in a Victorian novel. "Man plays the
dominant, active role in the gift process.
Woman's role is more subtle, more oblique,
more enigmatic...." The woman seemed to
believe there was something improper about
receiving a diamond gift. Women spoke in
interviews about large diamonds as "flashy,
gaudy, overdone" and otherwise
inappropriate. Yet the study found that
"Buried in the negative attitudes ... lies
what is probably the primary driving force
for acquiring them. Diamonds are a
traditional and conspicuous signal of
achievement, status and success." It noted,
for example, "A woman can easily feel that
diamonds are 'vulgar' and still be highly
enthusiastic about receiving diamond
jewelry." The element of surprise, even if
it is feigned, plays the same role of
accommodating dissonance in accepting a
diamond gift as it does in prime sexual
seductions: it permits the woman to pretend
that she has not actively participated in
the decision. She thus retains both her
innocence -- and the diamond.
For advertising
diamonds in the late 1970s, the implications
of this research were clear. To induce men
to buy diamonds for women, advertising
should focus on the emotional impact of the
"surprise" gift transaction. In the final
analysis, a man was moved to part with
earnings not by the value, aesthetics, or
tradition of diamonds but by the expectation
that a "gift of love" would enhance his
standing in the eyes of a woman. On the
other hand, a woman accepted the gift as a
tangible symbol of her status and
achievements.
By 1979, N. W. Ayer had
helped De Beers expand its sales of diamonds
in the United States to more than $2.1
billion, at the wholesale level, compared
with a mere $23 million in 1939. In forty
years, the value of its sales had increased
nearly a hundredfold. The expenditure on
advertisements, which began at a level of
only $200,000 a year and gradually increased
to $10 million, seemed a brilliant
investment.
EXCEPT for those few
stones that have been destroyed, every
diamond that has been found and cut into a
jewel still exists today and is literally in
the public's hands. Some hundred million
women wear diamonds, while millions of
others keep them in safe-deposit boxes or
strongboxes as family heirlooms. It is
conservatively estimated that the public
holds more than 500 million carats of gem
diamonds, which is more than fifty times the
number of gem diamonds produced by the
diamond cartel in any given year. Since the
quantity of diamonds needed for engagement
rings and other jewelry each year is
satisfied by the production from the world's
mines, this half-billion-carat supply of
diamonds must be prevented from ever being
put on the market. The moment a significant
portion of the public begins selling
diamonds from this inventory, the price of
diamonds cannot be sustained. For the
diamond invention to survive, the public
must be inhibited from ever parting with its
diamonds.
In developing a
strategy for De Beers in 1953, N. W. Ayer
said: "In our opinion old diamonds are in
'safe hands' only when widely dispersed and
held by individuals as cherished possessions
valued far above their market price." As far
as De Beers and N. W. Ayer were concerned,
"safe hands" belonged to those women
psychologically conditioned never to sell
their diamonds. This conditioning could not
be attained solely by placing advertisements
in magazines. The diamond-holding public,
which includes people who inherit diamonds,
had to remain convinced that diamonds
retained their monetary value. If it saw
price fluctuations in the diamond market and
attempted to dispose of diamonds to take
advantage of changing prices, the retail
market would become chaotic. It was
therefore essential that De Beers maintain
at least the illusion of price stability.
In the 1971 De Beers
annual report, Harry Oppenheimer explained
the unique situation of diamonds in the
following terms: "A degree of control is
necessary for the well-being of the
industry, not because production is
excessive or demand is falling, but simply
because wide fluctuations in price, which
have, rightly or wrongly, been accepted as
normal in the case of most raw materials,
would be destructive of public confidence in
the case of a pure luxury such as gem
diamonds, of which large stocks are held in
the form of jewelry by the general public."
During the periods when production from the
mines temporarily exceeds the consumption of
diamonds -- the balance is determined mainly
by the number of impending marriages in the
United States and Japan -- the cartel can
preserve the illusion of price stability by
either cutting back the distribution of
diamonds at its London "sights," where, ten
times a year, it allots the world's supply
of diamonds to about 300 hand-chosen
dealers, called "sight-holders," or by
itself buying back diamonds at the wholesale
level. The underlying assumption is that as
long as the general public never sees the
price of diamonds fall, it will not become
nervous and begin selling its diamonds. If
this huge inventory should ever reach the
market, even De Beers and all the
Oppenheimer resources could not prevent the
price of diamonds from plummeting.
Selling individual
diamonds at a profit, even those held over
long periods of time, can be surprisingly
difficult. For example, in 1970, the
London-based consumer magazine Money Which?
decided to test diamonds as a decade long
investment. It bought two gem-quality
diamonds, weighing approximately one-half
carat apiece, from one of London's most
reputable diamond dealers, for £400 (then
worth about a thousand dollars). For nearly
nine years, it kept these two diamonds
sealed in an envelope in its vault. During
this same period, Great Britain experienced
inflation that ran as high as 25 percent a
year. For the diamonds to have kept pace
with inflation, they would have had to
increase in value at least 300 percent,
making them worth some £400 pounds by 1978.
But when the magazine's editor, Dave Watts,
tried to sell the diamonds in 1978, he found
that neither jewelry stores nor wholesale
dealers in London's Hatton Garden district
would pay anywhere near that price for the
diamonds. Most of the stores refused to pay
any cash for them; the highest bid Watts
received was £500, which amounted to a
profit of only £100 in over eight years, or
less than 3 percent at a compound rate of
interest. If the bid were calculated in 1970
pounds, it would amount to only £167. Dave
Watts summed up the magazine's experiment by
saying, "As an 8-year investment the
diamonds that we bought have proved to be
very poor." The problem was that the buyer,
not the seller, determined the price.
The magazine conducted
another experiment to determine the extent
to which larger diamonds appreciate in value
over a one-year period. In 1970, it bought a
1.42 carat diamond for £745. In 1971, the
highest offer it received for the same gem
was £568. Rather than sell it at such an
enormous loss, Watts decided to extend the
experiment until 1974, when he again made
the round of the jewelers in Hatton Garden
to have it appraised. During this tour of
the diamond district, Watts found that the
diamond had mysteriously shrunk in weight to
1.04 carats. One of the jewelers had
apparently switched diamonds during the
appraisal. In that same year, Watts,
undaunted, bought another diamond, this one
1.4 carats, from a reputable London dealer.
He paid £2,595. A week later, he decided to
sell it. The maximum offer he received was
£1,000.
In 1976, the Dutch
Consumer Association also tried to test the
price appreciation of diamonds by buying a
perfect diamond of over one carat in
Amsterdam, holding it for eight months, and
then offering it for sale to the twenty
leading dealers in Amsterdam. Nineteen
refused to buy it, and the twentieth dealer
offered only a fraction of the purchase
price.
Selling diamonds can
also be an extraordinarily frustrating
experience for private individuals. In 1978,
for example, a wealthy woman in New York
City decided to sell back a diamond ring she
had bought from Tiffany two years earlier
for $100,000 and use the proceeds toward a
necklace of matched pearls that she fancied.
She had read about the "diamond boom" in
news magazines and hoped that she might make
a profit on the diamond. Instead, the sales
executive explained, with what she said
seemed to be a touch of embarrassment, that
Tiffany had "a strict policy against
repurchasing diamonds." He assured her,
however, that the diamond was extremely
valuable, and suggested another Fifth Avenue
jewelry store. The woman went from one
leading jeweler to another, attempting to
sell her diamond. One store offered to swap
it for another jewel, and two other jewelers
offered to accept the diamond "on
consignment" and pay her a percentage of
what they sold it for, but none of the
half-dozen jewelers she visited offered her
cash for her $100,000 diamond. She finally
gave up and kept the diamond.
Retail jewelers,
especially the prestigious Fifth Avenue
stores, prefer not to buy back diamonds from
customers, because the offer they would make
would most likely be considered ridiculously
low. The "keystone," or markup, on a diamond
and its setting may range from 100 to 200
percent, depending on the policy of the
store; if it bought diamonds back from
customers, it would have to buy them back at
wholesale prices. Most jewelers would prefer
not to make a customer an offer that might
be deemed insulting and also might undercut
the widely held notion that diamonds go up
in value. Moreover, since retailers
generally receive their diamonds from
wholesalers on consignment, and need not pay
for them until they are sold, they would not
readily risk their own cash to buy diamonds
from customers. Rather than offer customers
a fraction of what they paid for diamonds,
retail jewelers almost invariably recommend
to their clients firms that specialize in
buying diamonds "retail."
The firm perhaps most
frequently recommended by New York jewelry
shops is Empire Diamonds Corporation, which
is situated on the sixty-sixth floor of the
Empire State Building, in midtown Manhattan.
Empire's reception room, which resembles a
doctor's office, is usually crowded with
elderly women who sit nervously in plastic
chairs waiting for their names to be called.
One by one, they are ushered into a small
examining room, where an appraiser
scrutinizes their diamonds and makes them a
cash offer. "We usually can't pay more than
a maximum of 90 percent of the current
wholesale price," says Jack Brod, president
of Empire Diamonds. "In most cases we have
to pay less, since the setting has to be
discarded, and we have to leave a margin for
error in our evaluation -- especially if the
diamond is mounted in a setting." Empire
removes the diamonds from their settings,
which are sold as scrap, and resells them to
wholesalers. Because of the steep markup on
diamonds, individuals who buy retail and in
effect sell wholesale often suffer enormous
losses. For example, Brod estimates that a
half-carat diamond ring, which might cost
$2,000 at a retail jewelry store, could be
sold for only $600 at Empire.
The appraisers at
Empire Diamonds examine thousands of
diamonds a month but rarely turn up a
diamond of extraordinary quality. Almost all
the diamonds they find are slightly flawed,
off-color, commercial-grade diamonds. The
chief appraiser says, "When most of these
diamonds were purchased, American women were
concerned with the size of the diamond, not
its intrinsic quality." He points out that
the setting frequently conceals flaws, and
adds, "The sort of flawless,
investment-grade diamond one reads about is
almost never found in jewelry."
Many of the elderly
women who bring their jewelry to Empire
Diamonds and other buying services have been
victims of burglaries or muggings and fear
further attempts. Thieves, however, have an
even more difficult time selling diamonds
than their victims. When suspicious-looking
characters turn up at Empire Diamonds, they
are asked to wait in the reception room, and
the police are called in. In January of
1980, for example, a disheveled youth came
into Empire with a bag full of jewelry that
he called "family heirlooms." When Brod
pointed out that a few pieces were
imitations, the youth casually tossed them
into the wastepaper basket. Brod buzzed for
the police.
When thieves bring
diamonds to underworld "fences," they
usually get only a pittance for them. In
1979, for example, New York City police
recovered stolen diamonds with an insured
value of $50,000 which had been sold to a
'fence' for only $200. According to the
assistant district attorney who handled the
case, the fence was unable to dispose of the
diamonds on 47th Street, and he was
eventually turned in by one of the diamond
dealers he contacted.
While those who attempt
to sell diamonds often experience
disappointment at the low price they are
offered, stories in gossip columns suggest
that diamonds are resold at enormous
profits. This is because the column items
are not about the typical diamond ring that
a woman desperately attempts to peddle to
small stores and diamond buying services
like Empire but about truly extraordinary
diamonds that movie stars sell, or claim to
sell, in a publicity-charged atmosphere. The
legend created around the so-called
"Elizabeth Taylor" diamond is a case in
point. This pear-shaped diamond, which
weighed 69.42 carats after it had been cut
and polished, was the fifty-sixth largest
diamond in the world and one of the few
large-cut diamonds in private hands. Except
that it was a diamond, it had little in
common with the millions of small stones
that are mass-marketed each year in
engagement rings and other jewelry.
|
A serious threat
to the Stability
of the diamond
invention came
in the late
1970s from the
sale of
"investment"
diamonds to
speculators in
the United
States. A large
number of
fraudulent
investment
firms, most of
them in Arizona,
began
telephoning
prospective
clients drawn
from various
lists of
professionals
and investors
who had recently
sold stock.
"Boiler-room
operators," many
of them former
radio and
television
announcers,
persuaded
strangers to buy
mail-order
diamonds as
investments that
were supposedly
much safer than
stocks or bonds.
Many of the
newly created
firms also held
"diamond-investment
seminars" in
expensive resort
hotels, where
they presented
impressive
graphs and data.
Typically
assisted by a
few
well-rehearsed
shills in the
audience, the
seminar leaders
sold sealed
packets of
diamonds to the
audience. The
leaders often
played on the
fear of elderly
investors that
their relatives
might try to
seize their cash
assets and
commit them to
nursing homes.
They suggested
that the
investors could
stymie such
attempts by
putting their
money into
diamonds and
hiding them.
The sealed
packets
distributed at
these seminars
and through the
mail included
certificates
guaranteeing the
quality of the
diamonds -- as
long as the
packets remained
sealed.
Customers who
broke the seal
often learned
from independent
appraisers that
their diamonds
were of a
quality inferior
to that stated.
Many were
worthless.
Complaints
proliferated so
fast that, in
1978, the
attorney general
of New York
created a
"diamond task
force" to
investigate the
hundreds of
allegations of
fraud.
Some of the
entrepreneurs
were relative
newcomers to the
diamond
business.
Rayburne Martin,
who went from De
Beers Diamond
Investments,
Ltd. (no
relation to the
De Beers cartel)
to Tel-Aviv
Diamond
Investments,
Ltd. -- both in
Scottsdale,
Arizona -- had a
record of
embezzlement and
securities law
violations in
Arkansas, and
was a fugitive
from justice
during most of
his tenure in
the diamond
trade. Harold S.
McClintock, also
known as Harold
Sager, had been
convicted of
stock fraud in
Chicago and
involved in a
silver-bullion-selling
caper in 1974
before he helped
organize DeBeers
Diamond
Investments,
Ltd. Don Jay
Shure, who
arranged to set
up another
DeBeers Diamond
Investments,
Ltd., in Irvine,
California, had
also formerly
been convicted
of fraud.
Bernhard
Dohrmann, the
"marketing
director" of the
International
Diamond
Corporation, had
served time in
jail for
security fraud
in 1976. Donald
Nixon, the
nephew of former
President
Richard M.
Nixon, and
fugitive
financier Robert
L. Vesco were,
according to the
New York State
attorney
general,
participating in
the late 1970s
in a
high-pressure
telephone
campaign to sell
"overvalued or
worthless
diamonds" by
employing "a
battery of
silken-voiced
radio and
television
announcers."
Among the
diamond salesmen
were also a wide
array of former
commodity and
stock brokers
who specialized
in attempting to
sell sealed
diamonds to
pension funds
and retirement
plans.
In London, the
real De Beers,
unable to stifle
all the bogus
entrepreneurs
using its name,
decided to
explore the
potential market
for investment
gems. It
announced in
March of 1978 a
highly unusual
sort of "diamond
fellowship" for
selected retail
jewelers. Each
jeweler who
participated
would pay a
$2,000
fellowship fee.
In return, he
would receive a
set of
certificates for
investment-grade
diamonds,
contractual
forms for
"buy-back"
guarantees,
promotional
material, and
training in how
to sell these
loose diamonds
to an entirely
new category of
customers. The
selected
retailers would
then sell loose
stones rather
than fine
jewels, with
certificates
guaranteeing
their value at
$4,000 to
$6,000.
De Beers's
modest move into
the
investment-diamond
business caused
a tremor of
concern in the
trade. De Beers
had always
strongly opposed
retailers
selling
"investment"
diamonds, on the
grounds that
because
customers had no
sentimental
attachment to
such diamonds,
they would
eventually
attempt to
resell them and
cause sharp
price
fluctuations.
If De Beers had
changed its
policy toward
investment
diamonds, it was
not because it
wanted to
encourage the
speculative
fever that was
sweeping America
and Europe. De
Beers had
"little choice
but to get
involved," as
one De Beers
executive
explained. Many
established
diamond dealers
had rushed into
the investment
field to sell
diamonds to
financial
institutions,
pension plans,
and private
investors. It
soon became
apparent in the
Diamond Exchange
in New York that
selling loose
diamonds to
investors was
far more
profitable than
selling them to
jewelry shops.
By early 1980,
David Birnbaum,
a leading dealer
in New York,
estimated that
nearly a third
of all diamond
sales in the
United States
were, in terms
of dollar value,
of these loose
investment
diamonds. "Only
five years
earlier,
investment
diamonds were
only an
insignificant
part of the
business," he
said. Even if De
Beers did not
approve of this
new market in
diamonds, it
could hardly
ignore a third
of the American
diamond trade.
To make a
profit,
investors must
at some time
find buyers who
are willing to
pay more for
their diamonds
than they did.
Here, however,
investors face
the same problem
as those
attempting to
sell their
jewelry: there
is no unified
market in which
to sell
diamonds.
Although dealers
will quote the
prices at which
they are willing
to sell
investment-grade
diamonds, they
seldom give a
set price at
which they are
willing to buy
diamonds of the
same grade. In
1977, for
example,
Jewelers'
Circular
Keystone polled
a large number
of retail
dealers and
found a
difference of
over 100 percent
in offers for
the same quality
of
investment-grade
diamonds.
Moreover, even
though most
investors buy
their diamonds
at or near
retail price,
they are forced
to sell at
wholesale
prices. As
Forbes magazine
pointed out, in
1977, "Average
investors,
unfortunately,
have little
access to the
wholesale
market. Ask a
jeweler to buy
back a stone,
and he'll often
begin by quoting
a price 30% or
more below
wholesale."
Since the
difference
between
wholesale and
retail is
usually at least
100 percent in
investment
diamonds, any
gain from the
appreciation of
the diamonds
will probably be
lost in selling
them.
"There's going
to come a day
when all those
doctors,
lawyers, and
other fools who
bought diamonds
over the phone
take them out of
their
strongboxes, or
wherever, and
try to sell
them," one
dealer predicted
last year.
Another gave a
gloomy picture
of what would
happen if this
accumulation of
diamonds were
suddenly sold by
speculators.
"Investment
diamonds are
bought for
$30,000 a carat,
not because any
woman wants to
wear them on her
finger but
because the
investor
believes they
will be worth
$50,000 a carat.
He may borrow
heavily to
leverage his
investment. When
the price begins
to decline,
everyone will
try to sell
their diamonds
at once. In the
end, of course,
there will be no
buyers for
diamonds at
$30,000 a carat
or even $15,000.
At this point,
there will be a
stampede to sell
investment
diamonds, and
the newspapers
will begin
writing stories
about the great
diamond crash.
Investment
diamonds
constitute, of
course, only a
small fraction
of the diamonds
held by the
public, but when
women begin
reading about a
diamond crash,
they will take
their diamonds
to retail
jewelers to be
appraised and
find out that
they are worth
less than they
paid for them.
At that point,
people will
realize that
diamonds are not
forever, and
jewelers will be
flooded with
customers trying
to sell, not
buy, diamonds.
That will be the
end of the
diamond
business."
BUT a panic on
the part of
investors is not
the only event
that could end
the diamond
business. De
Beers is at this
writing losing
control of
several sources
of diamonds that
might flood the
market at any
time, deflating
forever the
price of
diamonds.
In the winter of
1978, diamond
dealers in New
York City were
becoming
increasingly
concerned about
the possibility
of a serious
rupture, or even
collapse, of the
"pipeline"
through which De
Beers's diamonds
flow from the
cutting centers
in Europe to the
main retail
markets in
America and
Japan. This
pipeline, a
crucial
component of the
diamond
invention, is
made up of a
network of
brokers, diamond
cutters,
bankers,
distributors,
jewelry
manufacturers,
wholesalers, and
diamond buyers
for retail
establishments.
Most of the
people in this
pipeline are
Jewish, and
virtually all
are closely
interconnected,
through family
ties or
long-standing
business
relationships.
An important
part of the
pipeline goes
from London to
diamond-cutting
factories in Tel
Aviv to New
York; but in
Israel, diamond
dealers were
stockpiling
supplies of
diamonds rather
than processing
and passing them
through the
pipeline to New
York. Since the
early 1970s,
when diamond
prices were
rapidly
increasing and
Israeli currency
was depreciating
by more than 50
percent a year,
it had been more
profitable for
Israeli dealers
to keep the
diamonds they
received from
London than to
cut and sell
them. As more
and more
diamonds were
taken out of
circulation in
Tel Aviv, an
acute shortage
began in New
York, driving
prices up.
In early 1977,
Sir Philip
Oppenheimer
dispatched his
son Anthony to
Tel Aviv,
accompanied by
other De Beers
executives, to
announce that De
Beers intended
to cut the
Israeli quota of
diamonds by at
least 20 percent
during the
coming year.
This warning had
the opposite
effect of what
he intended.
Rather than
paring down
production to
conform to this
quota, Israeli
manufacturers
and dealers
began building
up their own
stockpiles of
diamonds, paying
a premium of 100
percent or more
for the unopened
boxes of
diamonds that De
Beers shipped to
Belgian and
American
dealers. (By
selling their
diamonds to the
Israelis, the De
Beers clients
could instantly
double their
money without
taking any
risks.) Israeli
buyers also
moved into
Africa and began
buying directly
from smugglers.
The
Intercontinental
Hotel in
Liberia, then
the center for
the sale of
smuggled goods,
became a sort of
extension of the
Israeli bourse.
After the
Israeli dealers
purchased the
diamonds, either
from De Beers
clients or from
smugglers, they
received 80
percent of the
amount they had
paid in the form
of a loan from
Israeli banks.
Because of
government
pressure to help
the diamond
industry, the
banks charged
only 6 percent
interest on
these loans,
well below the
rate of
inflation in
Israel. By 1978,
the banks had
extended $850
million in
credit to
diamond dealers,
an amount equal
to some 5
percent of the
entire gross
national product
of Israel. The
only collateral
the banks had
for these loans
was uncut
diamonds.
De Beers
estimated that
the Israeli
stockpile was
more than 6
million carats
in 1977, and
growing at a
rate of almost
half a million
carats a month.
At that rate, it
would be only a
matter of months
before the
Israeli
stockpile would
exceed the
cartel's in
London. If
Israel
controlled such
an enormous
quantity of
diamonds, the
cartel could no
longer fix the
price of
diamonds with
impunity. At any
time, the
Israelis could
be forced to
pour these
diamonds onto
the world
market. The
cartel decided
that it had no
alternative but
to force
liquidation of
the Israeli
stockpile.
If De Beers
wanted to bring
the diamond
speculation
under control,
it would have to
clamp down on
the banks, which
were financing
diamond
purchases with
artificially low
interest rates.
De Beers
announced that
it was adopting
a new strategy
of imposing
"surcharges" on
diamonds. Since
these
"surcharges,"
which might be
as much as 40
percent of the
value of the
diamonds, were
effectively a
temporary price
increase, they
could pose a
risk to banks
extending credit
to diamond
dealers. For
example, with a
40 percent
surcharge, a
diamond dealer
would have to
pay $1,400
rather than
$1,000 for a
small lot of
diamonds;
however, if the
surcharge was
withdrawn, the
diamonds would
be worth only a
thousand
dollars. The
Israeli banks
could not afford
to advance 80
percent of a
purchase price
that included
the so-called
surcharge; they
therefore
required
additional
collateral from
dealers and
speculators.
Further, they
began, under
pressure from De
Beers, to raise
interest rates
on outstanding
loans.
Within a matter
of weeks in the
summer of 1978,
interest rates
on loans to
purchase
diamonds went up
50 percent.
Moreover,
instead of
lending money
based on what
Israeli dealers
paid for
diamonds, the
banks began
basing their
loans on the
official De
Beers price for
diamonds. If a
dealer paid more
than the De
Beers price for
diamonds -- and
most Israeli
dealers were
paying at least
double the price
-- he would have
to finance the
increment with
his own funds.
To tighten the
squeeze on
Israel, De Beers
abruptly cut off
shipments of
diamonds to
forty of its
clients who had
been selling
large portions
of their
consignments to
Israeli dealers.
As Israeli
dealers found it
increasingly
difficult either
to buy or
finance
diamonds, they
were forced to
sell diamonds
from the
stockpiles they
had accumulated.
Israeli diamonds
poured onto the
market, and
prices at the
wholesale level
began to fall.
This decline led
the Israeli
banks to put
further pressure
on dealers to
liquidate their
stocks to repay
their loans.
Hundreds of
Israeli dealers,
unable to meet
their
commitments,
went bankrupt as
prices continued
to plunge. The
banks inherited
the diamonds.
Last spring,
executives of
the Diamond
Trading Company
made an
emergency trip
to Tel Aviv.
They had been
informed that
three Israeli
banks were
holding $1.5
billion worth of
diamonds in
their vaults --
an amount equal
to nearly the
annual
production of
all the diamond
mines in the
world -- and
were threatening
to dump the
hoard of
diamonds onto an
already
depressed
market. When the
banks had
investigated the
possibilities of
reselling the
diamonds in
Europe or the
United States,
they found
little interest.
The world
diamond market
was already
choked with
uncut and unsold
diamonds. The
only alternative
to dumping their
diamonds on the
market was
reselling them
to De Beers
itself.
De Beers,
however, is in
no position to
absorb such a
huge cache of
diamonds. During
the recession of
the mid-970s, it
had to use a
large portion of
its cash reserve
to buy diamonds
from Russia and
from newly
independent
countries in
Africa, in order
to preserve the
cartel
arrangement. As
it added
diamonds to its
stockpile, De
Beers depleted
its cash
reserves.
Furthermore, in
1980, De Beers
found it
necessary to buy
back diamonds on
the wholesale
markets in
Antwerp to
prevent a
complete
collapse in
diamond prices.
When the Israeli
banks approached
De Beers about
the possibility
of buying back
the diamonds, De
Beers, possibly
for the first
time since the
depression of
the 1930s, found
itself severely
strapped for
cash. It could,
of course,
borrow the $1.5
billion
necessary to
bail out the
Israeli banks,
but this would
strain the
financial
structure of the
entire
Oppenheimer
empire.
Sir Philip
Oppenheimer,
Monty Charles,
Michael
Grantham, and
other top
executives from
De Beers and its
subsidiaries
attempted to
prevent the
Israeli banks
from dumping
their hoard of
diamonds.
Despite their
best efforts,
however, the
situation
worsened. Last
September,
Israel's major
banks quietly
informed the
Israeli
government that
they faced
losses of
disastrous
proportions from
defaulted
accounts almost
entirely
collateralized
with diamonds.
Three of
Israel's largest
banks -- the
Union Bank of
Israel, the
Israel Discount
Bank, and
Barclays
Discount Bank --
had loans of
some $660
million
outstanding to
diamond dealers,
which
constituted a
significant
portion of the
bank debt in
Israel. To be
sure, not all of
these loans were
in jeopardy;
but, according
to bank
estimates,
defaults in
diamond accounts
rose to 20
percent of their
loan portfolios.
The crisis had
to be resolved
either by
selling the
diamonds that
had been put up
as collateral,
which might
precipitate a
worldwide
selling panic,
or by some sort
of outside
assistance from
the Israeli
government or De
Beers or both.
The negotiations
provided only
stopgap
assistance: De
Beers would buy
back a small
proportion of
the diamonds,
and the Israeli
government would
not force the
banks to conform
to banking
regulations that
would result in
the liquidation
of the
stockpile.
"Nobody took
into account
that diamonds,
like any other
commodity, can
drop in value,"
Mark Mosevics,
chairman of
First
International
Bank of Israel,
explained to The
New York Times.
According to
industry
estimates, the
average
one-carat
flawless diamond
had fallen in
value by 50
percent since
January of 1980.
In March of
1980, for
example, the
benchmark value
for such a
diamond was
$63,000; in
September of
1981, it was
only $23,000.
This collapse of
prices forced
Israeli banks to
sell diamonds
from their
stockpile at
enormous
discounts. One
Israeli bank
reportedly
liquidated
diamonds valued
at $6 million
for $4 million
in cash in late
1981. It became
clear to the
diamond trade
that a major
stockpile of
large diamonds
was out of De
Beers's control.
THE most serious
threat to De
Beers is yet
another source
of diamonds that
it does not
control -- a
source so far
untapped. Since
Cecil Rhodes and
the group of
European bankers
assembled the
components of
the diamond
invention at the
end of the
nineteenth
century,
managers of the
diamond cartel
have shared a
common nightmare
-- that a giant
new source of
diamonds would
be discovered
outside their
purview. Sir
Ernest
Oppenheimer,
using all the
colonial
connections of
the British
Empire,
succeeded in
weaving the
later
discoveries of
diamonds in
Africa into the
fabric of the
cartel; Harry
Oppenheimer
managed to
negotiate a
secret agreement
that effectively
brought the
Soviet Union
into the cartel.
However, these
brilliant
efforts did not
end the
nightmare. In
the late 1970s,
vast deposits of
diamonds were
discovered in
the Argyle
region of
Western
Australia, near
the town of
Kimberley
(coincidentally
named after
Kimberley, South
Africa). Test
drillings last
year indicated
that these pipe
mines could
produce up to 50
million carats
of diamonds a
year -- more
than the entire
production of
the De Beers
cartel in 1981.
Although only a
small percentage
of these
diamonds are of
gem quality, the
total number
produced would
still be
sufficient to
change the world
geography of
diamonds. Either
this 50 million
carats would be
brought under
control or the
diamond
invention would
be destroyed.
De Beers rapidly
moved to get a
stranglehold on
the Australian
diamonds. It
began by
acquiring a
small, indirect
interest in
Conzinc Riotinto
of Australia,
Ltd. (CRA), the
company that
controlled most
of the mining
rights. In 1980,
it offered a
secret deal to
CRA through
which it would
market the total
output of
Australian
production. This
agreement might
have ended the
Australian
threat if
Northern Mining
Corporation, a
minority partner
in the venture,
had accepted the
deal. Instead,
Northern Mining
leaked the terms
of the deal to a
leading
Australian
newspaper, which
reported that De
Beers planned to
pay the
Australian
consortium 80
percent less
than the
existing market
price for the
diamonds. This
led to a furor
in Australia.
The opposition
Labor Party
charged not only
that De Beers
was seeking to
cheat
Australians out
of the true
value of the
diamonds but
that the deal
with De Beers
would support
the policy of
apartheid in
South Africa. It
demanded that
the government
impose export
controls on the
diamonds rather
than allow them
to be controlled
by a South
African
corporation.
Prime Minister
Malcolm Fraser,
faced with a
storm of public
protest, said
that he saw no
advantage in
"arrangements in
which Australian
diamond
discoveries only
serve to
strengthen a
South African
monopoly." He
left the final
decision on
marketing,
however, to the
Western
Australia state
government and
the mining
companies, which
may or may not
decide to make
an arrangement
with De Beers.
De Beers also
faces a
crumbling empire
in Zaire. Sir
Ernest
Oppenheimer had
concluded, more
than fifty years
ago, that
control over the
diamond mines in
Zaire (then
called the
Belgian Congo)
was the key to
the cartel's
control of world
production. De
Beers, together
with its Belgian
partners, had
instituted
mining and
sorting
procedures that
would maximize
the production
of industrial
(rather than
gem) diamonds.
Since there was
no other ready
customer for the
enormous
quantities of
industrial
diamonds the
Zairian mines
produced, De
Beers remained
their only
outlet. In June
of last year,
however,
President Mobuto
abruptly
announced that
his country's
exclusive
contract with a
De Beers
subsidiary would
not be renewed.
Mobuto was
reportedly
influenced by
offers he
received for
Zaire's diamond
production from
both Indian and
American
manufacturers.
According to one
New York diamond
dealer, "Mobuto
simply wants a
more lucrative
deal." Whatever
his motives, the
sudden
withdrawal of
Zaire from the
cartel further
undercuts the
stability of the
diamond market.
With increasing
pressure for the
independence of
Namibia, and a
less friendly
government in
neighboring
Botswana, De
Beers's days of
control in black
Africa seem
numbered.
Even in the
midst of this
crisis, De
Beers's
executives in
London have been
maneuvering to
save the diamond
invention by
buying up loose
diamonds. The
inventory of
diamonds in De
Beers's vault
has swollen to a
value of over a
billion dollars
-- twice the
value of the
1979 inventory.
To rekindle the
demand for
diamonds, De
Beers recently
launched a new
multimillion-dollar
advertising
campaign
(including
$400,000 for
television
advertisements
during the
British royal
wedding in
July), yet it
can be expected
to buy only a
few years of
time for the
cartel. By the
mid-1980s, the
avalanche of
Australian
diamonds will be
pouring onto the
market. Unless
the resourceful
managers of De
Beers can find a
way to gain
control of the
various sources
of diamonds that
will soon crowd
the market,
these sources
may bring about
the final
collapse of
world diamond
prices. If they
do, the diamond
invention will
disintegrate and
be remembered
only as a
historical
curiosity, as
brilliant in its
way as the
glittering
little stones it
once made so
valuable.
COPYRIGHT 2007
by Edward Jay
Epstein
http://www.edwardjayepstein.com/diamond.htm
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